References

1 U.S Bureau of Labor Statistics (2024) Industries at a Glance. Available at: https://www.bls.gov/iag/tgs/iag315.htm#workforce

2 The Observatory of Economic Complexity (n.d) Used Clothing. Available at: https://oec.world/en/profile/hs/used-clothing 3 King, J. (2021) Textile reuse and recycling: A SMART perspective. NIST Workshop: Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles.

4 Arlington Research for Garson & Shaw 2024. Respondent Base: 2,000 online interviews in the USA with adults aged 18+. Fieldwork Dates: 26 Mar-5 Apr, 2024. Calculation is based on an average purchase of 29.52 items of clothing per adult.

5 Environmental Protection Agency (2021) National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling. Available online at: https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and- recycling/national-overview-facts-and-figures-materials.

6 Adler, M. (2021) Textile circularity in the US: current landscape, bottlenecks, and critical gaps. NIST Workshop: Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles.

7 Ibid.

8 Niinimäki, K., (2024) ‘Textiles and Garment Lifetimes’, in Niinimäki, K. (ed).) Recycling and Lifetime Management in the Textile and Fashion Sector. CRC Press, pp. 1-14.

9 Environmental Protection Agency (2021) National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling. Available online at: https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and- recycling/national-overview-facts-and-figures-materials.

10 Niinimäki, K., (2024) ‘Textiles and Garment Lifetimes’, in Niinimäki, K. (ed).) Recycling and Lifetime Management in the Textile and Fashion Sector. CRC Press, pp. 1-14.

11 Minter, A. (2024) E-mail to Patrick Diamond.

12 Adler, M. (2021) Textile circularity in the US: current landscape, bottlenecks, and critical gaps. NIST Workshop: Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles.

13 Minter, A. (2019) Adam Minter on why secondhand markets are the true circular economies. Wastedive. 12 November. Available online at: https://www.wastedive.com/news/adam-minter-on-why-secondhand- markets-are-the-true-circular-economies/567057/.

14 Russell, M. (2022) Fashion resale market grows as cost conscious consumer emerges. Just Style. 11 October. Available online at: https://www.just-style.com/features/fashion-resale-market-grows-as-cost-conscious- consumer-emerges/.

15 Struner, S. (2021) Here's What Goodwill Actually Does with Your Donated Clothes. Huffington Post. 5 January. Available online at: https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/what-does-goodwill-do-with-your- clothes_n_57e06b96e4b0071a6e092352.

16 King, J. (2021) Textile reuse and recycling: A SMART perspective. NIST Workshop: Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles.

17 Ibid.

18 United Nations (2024). UN Comtrade Database. Available at: https://comtrade.un.org.

19 Future Market Insights (2024) Secondhand Apparel Market. Available at: https://www.futuremarketinsights.com/reports/secondhand-apparel-market.

20 Feyertag, J. (2024) Job Creation in Africa’s Second-hand Clothing Sector: Evidence from Angola, Guinea- Bissau, Malawi, Mozambique and Zambia. Humana People to People. Available at: https://www.humana.org/images/publications/job-creation.pdf.

21 Baden, S. and Barber, B. (2005) The Impact of the Second-hand Clothing Trade on Developing Countries. Oxfam. Available at: https://policy-practice.oxfam.org/resources/the-impact-of-the-second-hand-clothing- trade-on-developing-countries-112464/.

22 China Textile Leader (2024) Economic Operation of China’s Apparel Industry in 2023. 15 March. Available at: https://www.texleader.com.cn/en/news-34135.html.

23 Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA) (2024) An evaluation of the socio-economic and environmental impact of the second-hand clothes trade in Ghana. Available at: https://usedclothinggh.org/published-papers/an-evaluation-of-the-socio-economic-and-environmental- impact-of-the-second-hand-clothes-trade-in-ghana/.

24 Institute of Economic Affairs, MCAK (2021) The State of the Second-hand Clothes and Footwear Trade in Kenya. Available at: https://ieakenya.or.ke/download/the-state-of-second-hand-clothes-and-footwear-trade- in-kenya/.

25 Feyertag, J. (2024) Job Creation in Africa’s Second-hand Clothing Sector: Evidence from Angola, Guinea- Bissau, Malawi, Mozambique and Zambia. Humana People to People. Available at: https://www.humana.org/images/publications/job-creation.pdf.

26 Garson and Shaw (2023) Reuse before Recycle: The secondhand clothing industry in Central America. Available at: www.garsonshaw.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Garson-and-Shaw-Reuse-Before-Recycle- Report-2023.pdf.

27 European Environment Agency (2022) Textiles and the Environment. Available at: https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/textiles-and-the-environment-the. 28 European Parliament (2022) Textiles and the Environment. European Parliamentary Research Service. Available at: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/RegData/etudes/BRIE/2022/729405/EPRS_BRI(2022)729405_EN.pdf.

29 Fleming, S. (2019) How the US is falling in love with second-hand clothes. World Economic Forum. 3 April. Available online at: https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2019/04/united-states-loves-secondhand-clothes.

30 Assoune, A. (2023) The Truth about Cotton: Environmental Impact. Panaparium. Available at: https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/cotton-environmental-impact.

31 Adler, M. (2021) Textile circularity in the US: current landscape, bottlenecks, and critical gaps. NIST Workshop: Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles.

32 Environmental Protection Agency (2021) National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling. Available at: https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/national- overview-facts-and-figures-materials.

33 European Environment Agency (2023) Microplastics from textiles: towards a circular economy for textiles in Europe. Available at: https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/microplastics-from-textiles-towards-a

34 Norton, J. et al. (2007) Race, Wealth, and Solid Waste Facilities in North Carolina. Environmental Health Perspective. 115(9) pp. 1344–1350. Available at:  10.1289/ehp.10161

35 This estimate is based on data included in Appendix 1.

36 Watson, D., et al. (2017) Exports of Nordic Used Textiles. Nordic Council of Ministers. Available at: https://norden.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1057017/FULLTEXT03.pdf.

37 Minter, A. (2019) Adam Minter on why secondhand markets are the true circular economies. Wastedive. 12 November. Available online at: https://www.wastedive.com/news/adam-minter-on-why-secondhand- markets-are-the-true-circular-economies/567057/.

38 Baloyi, R. B. et al. (2023) Recent advances in recycling technologies for textile fabrics: a review. Textile Research Journal, 94(3-4). Available at: https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175231210239.

39 Ibid.

40 Sandin, G. and Peters, G. (2018) Environmental Impact of Textile Reuse and Recycling – A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, pp. 355-378. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266.

41 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017) A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy.

42 Ibid.

43 Fleming, S. (2019) How the US is falling in love with second-hand clothes. World Economic Forum. 3 April. Available online at: https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2019/04/united-states-loves-secondhand-clothes.

44 U.S Bureau of Labor Statistics (2024) Industries at a Glance. Available at: https://www.bls.gov/iag/tgs/iag315.htm#workforce.

45 Duijn, H., Dufourmont, J. and Papu, N. (2020) Unwanted Clothes, Happy Workers: Exploring the potential for circular textiles to have a positive impact on work and workers. Medium. 15 January. Available at: https://circleeconomy.medium.com/unwanted-clothes-happy-workers-exploring-the-potential-for-circular- textiles-to-have-a-positive-e99b24010938.

46 Rreuse (2015) Briefing on job creation potential in the reuse sector. Available at: https://www.rreuse.org/wp-content/uploads/Final-briefing-on-reuse-jobs-website-2.pdf.

47 The Observatory of Economic Complexity (2022) Trade in used clothing. Available at: https://oec.world/en/profile/hs/used-clothing.

48 Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017) A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion's Future. Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy.

49 United Nations (2024) UN Comtrade Database. Available at: https://comtrade.un.org.

50 Minter, A. (2019) Adam Minter on why secondhand markets are the true circular economies. Wastedive. 12 November. Available online at: https://www.wastedive.com/news/adam-minter-on-why-secondhand- markets-are-the-true-circular-economies/567057/.

51 Ibid.

52 International Monetary Fund (2024) Data Mapper: Nicaragua. Available at: https://www.imf.org/external/datamapper/profile/NIC.

53 Ibid.

54 Ibid.

55 United Nations (2024) UN Comtrade Database. Available at: https://comtrade.un.org.

56 Ibid.

57 Centre for Economic Integration Studies (SIECA) with data from the Central Banks of the Region, Ministry of Development, Industry and Commerce (MIFIC) of Nicaragua and National Institute of Statistics and Census (INEC) of Panama. Last updated in February 2023.

58 The Word Bank Data (2024) Labor force participation rate, total (% of total population ages 15+) (modeled ILO estimate) – Nicaragua. Available at: https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/SL.TLF.CACT.ZS?locations=NI.

59 Interview with Ileana Gomez, researcher at Prisma.

60 Senate District 29 (2023) Legislation introduced to create first of its kind EPR. Available at: https://sd29.senate.ca.gov/news/press-release/legislation-introduced-create-first-its-kind-epr-textile- recycling-and-repair.

61 Ibid.

62 Ghana Used Clothing Dealers Association (GUCDA) (2024) An evaluation of the socio-economic and environmental impact of the second-hand clothes trade in Ghana. Available at: https://usedclothinggh.org/published-papers/an-evaluation-of-the-socio-economic-and-environmental- impact-of-the-second-hand-clothes-trade-in-ghana/.

63 Track Bill (n.d.) New York A8078 establishes extended producer responsibility for textiles. Available at: https://trackbill.com/bill/new-york-assembly-bill-8078-establishes-extended-producer-responsibility-for- textiles/2461488/.

64 Rockeman, C. (2023) Proposed Extended Producer Responsibility laws. Fortune. 30 May. Available at: https://fortune.com/2023/05/30/fashion-waste-recycling-programs-epr-proposed-laws/.

65 Nørup, N., Damgaard, A., Scheutz, C., & Pihl, K. (2016) Quality of textile waste: a case study of residual household waste from Odense Municipality, Denmark. Abstract from International Solid Waste Association (ISWA) World Congress 2016, Novi Sad, Serbia.